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Pasta With Onions and Anchovies

by . Featured in FEAST
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Introduction

I know that people feel very strongly about anchovies, but this is guaranteed — as much as one can guarantee anything — to overcome the most squealing of prejudices. Do not think of that salty dried-up thing that curls up and dies on top of cheap takeaway pizzas: the anchovies here are mellow and, with the soft-cooked onions, have a savoury but honeyed intensity — not strong, just deep-toned and harmonious. To be on the safe side, you could just serve this as 'pasta in Venetian sauce', failing to mention the anchovy element.

And please read the Additional Information section at the end of the recipe before proceeding.

For US cup measures, use the toggle at the top of the ingredients list.

I know that people feel very strongly about anchovies, but this is guaranteed — as much as one can guarantee anything — to overcome the most squealing of prejudices. Do not think of that salty dried-up thing that curls up and dies on top of cheap takeaway pizzas: the anchovies here are mellow and, with the soft-cooked onions, have a savoury but honeyed intensity — not strong, just deep-toned and harmonious. To be on the safe side, you could just serve this as 'pasta in Venetian sauce', failing to mention the anchovy element.

And please read the Additional Information section at the end of the recipe before proceeding.

For US cup measures, use the toggle at the top of the ingredients list.

Pasta With Onions and Anchovies
Photo by James Merrell

Ingredients

Serves: 4-6

Metric Cups
  • 2 large onions
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 5 tablespoons olive oil
  • ½ teaspoon soft light brown sugar
  • 12 anchovies (or 1 x 60g / 2oz can in olive oil)
  • 15 grams butter
  • tiniest pinch of ground cloves
  • 125 millilitres full fat milk
  • 500 grams linguine (bigoli, bucatini, perciatelli or other robust pasta)
  • 1 bunch freshly chopped fresh flatleaf parsley
  • 2 large onions
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • ⅓ cup olive oil
  • ½ teaspoon soft light brown sugar
  • 12 anchovies (or 1 x 60g / 2oz can in olive oil)
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • tiniest pinch of ground cloves
  • ½ cup whole milk
  • 1 pound linguine (bigoli, bucatini, perciatelli or other robust pasta)
  • 1 bunch freshly chopped fresh italian parsley

Method

  1. Finely chop the onions and garlic. I always used to do this in the processor, but I seem to be happier to chop by hand these days! And if you want to slice the onions into fine half moons, and then mince the garlic over once they've cooked, do.
  2. Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan and cook the very finely chopped onion and garlic over a low heat until you have a soft, golden mush — about 20 minutes. (If you've sliced the onions, rather than chopped them, they might need longer.) Add the brown sugar (though white is fine too), stir it in and let the onion mixture cook for another minute or so.
  3. Remove the anchovies from the tin, and chop them very finely. Add them to the onion mush, stirring until they begin to "melt", then stir in the butter and the pinch of ground cloves, followed by a tablespoonful of water and when all is combined, gradually stir in the milk. When this has come together as a puree, take the pan off the heat.
  4. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in abundant salted water according to the packet instructions, removing a ladleful of cooking liquid just before you drain it.
  5. Tip the drained pasta into the anchovy and onion sauce and add the reserved cooking water to help lubricate the pasta. You may not need all of the water, so pour in gradually. Add some oil from the anchovy tin if you need it too. And, of course, if the pan isn't big enough to take all the pasta, just put it back into the pan it was cooked in and pour the sauce over the top.
  6. Sprinkle over most of the parsley, just roughly chopped, thoroughly turning the pasta in the pan to coat each strand in the anchovy sauce. Remove to a warm bowl, sprinkle over the remaining parsley and take to the table.
  1. Finely chop the onions and garlic. I always used to do this in the processor, but I seem to be happier to chop by hand these days! And if you want to slice the onions into fine half moons, and then mince the garlic over once they've cooked, do.
  2. Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan and cook the very finely chopped onion and garlic over a low heat until you have a soft, golden mush — about 20 minutes. (If you've sliced the onions, rather than chopped them, they might need longer.) Add the brown sugar (though white is fine too), stir it in and let the onion mixture cook for another minute or so.
  3. Remove the anchovies from the tin, and chop them very finely. Add them to the onion mush, stirring until they begin to "melt", then stir in the butter and the pinch of ground cloves, followed by a tablespoonful of water and when all is combined, gradually stir in the milk. When this has come together as a puree, take the pan off the heat.
  4. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in abundant salted water according to the packet instructions, removing a ladleful of cooking liquid just before you drain it.
  5. Tip the drained pasta into the anchovy and onion sauce and add the reserved cooking water to help lubricate the pasta. You may not need all of the water, so pour in gradually. Add some oil from the anchovy tin if you need it too. And, of course, if the pan isn't big enough to take all the pasta, just put it back into the pan it was cooked in and pour the sauce over the top.
  6. Sprinkle over most of the parsley, just roughly chopped, thoroughly turning the pasta in the pan to coat each strand in the anchovy sauce. Remove to a warm bowl, sprinkle over the remaining parsley and take to the table.

Additional Information

Another Anna del Conte tip: if you're cooking pasta for a dinner party or any other occasion when you might be surrounded by people and forget to take the pasta off in time, you stand much less chance of overcooking it by following the Agnesi method. Bring your water to the boil, add salt, then tip in the pasta stirring well to make sure it's all in and not clumped together. Once the water's come back to the boil, let the pasta cook for 2 minutes then turn off the heat, cover the pan with a tea-towel (thin one, not the fat-waffled variety) and clamp with a tight-fitting lid. Let the pasta stand like that for as long as the packet tells you to cook it by the normal method. At which time drain it, remembering to remove the ladleful of cooking water before doing so.

MAKE AHEAD / STORE:
The sauce can be made up to 2 days ahead — cover and refrigerate until needed. Warm in a saucepan before continuing with the recipe.

Another Anna del Conte tip: if you're cooking pasta for a dinner party or any other occasion when you might be surrounded by people and forget to take the pasta off in time, you stand much less chance of overcooking it by following the Agnesi method. Bring your water to the boil, add salt, then tip in the pasta stirring well to make sure it's all in and not clumped together. Once the water's come back to the boil, let the pasta cook for 2 minutes then turn off the heat, cover the pan with a tea-towel (thin one, not the fat-waffled variety) and clamp with a tight-fitting lid. Let the pasta stand like that for as long as the packet tells you to cook it by the normal method. At which time drain it, remembering to remove the ladleful of cooking water before doing so.

MAKE AHEAD / STORE:
The sauce can be made up to 2 days ahead — cover and refrigerate until needed. Warm in a saucepan before continuing with the recipe.

Tell us what you think

What 12 Others have said

  • Suprisingly meaty dish... The anchovies dissolve and leave a really punchy umani flavour. I added a bit little dried chilli flake for a bit of extra punch. Great lunchtime bowl.

    Posted by MarkusLeeds on 28th July 2023
  • Oh my! I could live on this.

    Posted by RuthieJrt on 12th February 2021
  • This is totally delicious; and that's from someone who hated anchovies as all I had previously was those dried up disgusting fish-bait things chucked on pizzas. I've made this several times now and it's quick and easy. It takes as long as boiling water and cooking the pasta and even tastier the next day when the flavours have matured!

    Posted by Pgmooney on 14th August 2019
  • This is a great recipe, just made it but no parsley - too dark to go down the garden. Even so - delicious!

    Posted by Jiblet on 26th November 2018
  • Thank you for sharing all those wonderful recipes. I make a very similar dish with home made orecchiette and cima di rapa, a traditional recipe from Puglia. But I'm not sure I got Anna del Conte's tip for cooking pasta? What's the point in turning off the heat BEFORE an x minutes cooking time, instead of turning the heat off AFTER the same cooking time? In both versions you have to watch the time. In Anna's methods you even need to watch two different cooking times. Do I misunderstand something?

    Posted by cartouche on 10th April 2018
  • This is great ..... I make a similar version but without milk. As an added element - add a few tablespoons toasted breadcrumbs (heated while stirring in a pot will toast nicely - but watch carefully to prevent burning) to the cooked pasta. This absorbs all anchovy flavours, lightly coats spaghetti strand and is delicious! PS .... I use spaghettini /capellini to create a much finer texture.

    Posted by Annocolo on 10th April 2018
  • I used this recipe last week and tonight I tried it again with my own twist remove the sugar completely and add another 50ml of milk (I used koko organic coconut milk too) and add about 750g of spinach this turned out absolutely delightfull

    Posted by Munchi on 17th March 2016
  • Ok. Would make again if I had all the ingredients on hand.

    Posted by ciaranic on 30th April 2013
  • Many thanks for this one. We have heaps of anchovies here in Australia and this is an amazing way to use them. Jean.

    Posted by montyprince on 28th March 2014
  • Excellent dish. Made it as comfort food for our daughter who is studying for her exams. I will definitely cook this again. Cathelijne, The Netherlands

    Posted by Cathelijne on 7th October 2013
  • I made this just the other night. I added some grape tomatoes and mix in the pasta when they began to burst. Simple. Delicious. Satisfying.

    Posted by LadyT_TNT on 23rd August 2012
  • Nice recipe. I boil the onions for 5 minutes (to get rid of the bitterness) then put them in the biff baff boff machine. Particularly good recipe for people not particularly keen on anchovies

    Posted by herbeano on 20th May 2011
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