Photo by Joe Woodhouse
In the interests of transparency, I should say that Joe Woodhouse is a friend. But I should also tell you that this means I have eaten his food at his and Olia Hercules’ house, and I’m here to tell you it’s just wonderful: not fancy or fussy, but just beautiful cooking with care, a-brim with flavour, and joyfully seasonal. He combines delicacy and robustness, depending on what the ingredients, the occasion, and the meal need, and I’m happier than I can say that he’s written this book. And if you want to be made unbearably hungry right now, just check out his Insta account, where he’s 'joe_woodhouse'.
And while I know that the subtitle is “Modern, fuss-free vegetarian food” and that this information is helpful, in my own life, I'm hesitant to demarcate like that. Good food is good food, and this really is a book for all of us who want to cook and eat meals that taste wonderful, can be made without stress, and bring cheer and comfort to our everyday lives and a sense of occasion to special gatherings. Anyone who cooks would be ecstatically grateful for this book, no less than the people they cook for!
His recipes are full of suggestions as to how ingredients may be varied or substituted, what other recipes in the book they go with, and how to make them your own, should you want to. But importantly, he’s there with you, giving kind and clear instructions, making the recipes easy and unchallenging to follow. And let’s get to them. On my list (in no particular order) are: Charred Broccoli with Chilli Buttered Almonds; Spelt with Steamed Leeks in a Cavolo Nero Sauce; Flatbread with Potatoes & Onion Sauce (not onions in white sauce but a glorious mixture of slow-cooked onions and butter, spritzed with lemon); a lovely version of Aubergine Parmigiana; ditto Romesco Sauce; Tomatoes cooked in Crème Fraîche with Mint on Toast; Creamed Corn, Soft-Boiled Egg & Garlic Chilli Crisp; Pancakes Stuffed with Creamy Mushrooms; Potato Farls; Cumin-Spiced Carrot Salad; a beautiful Roast Butternut (or roast vegetables of your choice) with Whipped Tahini, Pickled Red Onion & Mint. I know I’m going on and on, but since it’s now the season of English asparagus, please humour me by allowing me just to mention the Grilled Asparagus & Lemon Rice, Asparagus Fritters & Aioli, and the irresistible Warmed Asparagus and Lettuce. I so nearly chose that to share with you today, and probably should have given the season, but in the end I couldn’t bear not to bring you his Potato Boulangère. As you can see from the photo (and I probably should have mentioned earlier that he’s a photographer) this is made with the potato slices not lying flat, as is traditional, but standing up so that the top is ruffled and crunchy, while the interior is soft and creamy. You see why I couldn’t resist?
Your Daily Veg: Modern, Fuss-Free Vegetarian Food by Joe Woodhouse is published by Kyle Books, 22.00, www.octopusbooks.co.uk
Photographs by Joe Woodhouse.
