Photo by Armelle Habib
The reason this book, which was actually published some many months ago, makes its appearance on CookbookCorner only now is down to sheer bad management on my part, and no reflection of the esteem in which I hold it. In fact, I’d got so attached to it that, after living in the kitchen for a while, it migrated to the special section in my study (that’s to say, the back of my very messy desk) for further scrutiny, rather than being given its rightful place in the real, physical CookbookCorner in my house along with all the other contenders. Given the ungovernable clutter I seem to work in, it’s not entirely surprising that it soon got swallowed up, but luckily I decided to clear my desk before taking a bit of a break, and it revealed itself reproachfully to me.
Rumi, the title of the book in question, is named for its author’s restaurant in Melbourne, one I hadn’t heard of, but certainly mean to go to when next I’m in that eater’s paradise of a city. Its subtitle — Food of Middle Eastern Appearance — pretty much explains what sort of food is contained within its pages but, just as pertinently, is an attempt to “realign the pejorative way the description was being used”. It also indicates the author Joseph Abboud’s expansive, inclusive approach, and the recipes, while in the main traditional, are not hidebound by those traditions. And although emanating from a professional kitchen, it is written so warmly and invitingly for a home cook.
It’s impossible to read this and not want to cook everything, but I shall flag up some of the recipes that spoke most insistently to me. These include Ejjeh, “a thin Lebanese omelette that could almost be called a crêpe”; Hummus topped with Minced Lamb and Pine Nut (an old favourite of mine) and a play on this in the form of a Minced Prawn and Coriander topping for it, too; the fabulous Almond Taratoor; Eggplant/Aubergine with Garlic Yogurt, Tomatoes and Mint (“This is not a dish inspired by anywhere in particular, but it’s bloody delicious”); Freekah, Feta and Pomegranate Salad; Pumpkin and Chick Pea Fattoush; the gorgeous Rumi Meatballs; fab Tahini Chicken; the Persian lamb stew, Khoresht Ghormeh Sabzi; Labne-Filled Dates; Baklava Ice Cream Sandwich; and the cardamom-and-cinnamon-scented Rice Pudding.
The recipe I’m sharing exultantly with you today is the first one I tried from the book, that intense and yet cloud-like garlic sauce, Toum. I’ve attempted this before, and never had it work: this recipe showed me how, and I cannot stop with it!
Rumi: Food of Middle Eastern Appearance by Joseph Abboud is published by Murdoch Books, £18.99, www.murdochbooks.co.uk
